I used lots of 1/2-inch wide strips of foil tape to seal the hole.ī: Diesel engines with mechanical vacuum pumps powered by the fan belt have no need to replace the vacuum reservoir. Clean the top and sides of the plastic air box and use foil furnace tape to seal the big hole. You could use a vacuum line with a 90-degree adapter head to attach to the check valve-this would allow both lines to enter the passenger compartment parallel through the hole. For gas engines, there will be 2 vacuum lines entering the cab through the hole-one to the system control switch and the other to the new vacuum reservoir. If everything works like it should, tuck the check valve back into the hole. Sweep up the plastic chips, start the engine and test the vents.
#2001 ford passenger van defrost install#
Install a vacuum line from the new vacuum reservoir and connect it to the check valve where the rotten hose was attached. Buy a new vacuum reservoir and zip-tie it under the passenger side dash. For gasoline engines, a new vacuum reservoir will replace the abandoned original vacuum reservoir buried in the engine compartment. I started with a 3/16 bit and finished with a 1/4 bit.Ī: Gasoline engines require a vacuum reservoir to hold the dash vents opened during periods of low manifold vacuum (full throttle). A Dremel might work for this step but I found drill bits with an extension shaft allowed more room to work. I put blue masking tape on the end of the drill bits to keep it from damaging anything inside the heater box. Use the side of a drill bit to ream/melt away the thin plastic. I used drill bits on an extension shaft to ream out the plastic flat area surrounding the grommet hole. Hold or tie the vacuum line off to the side and be careful not to nick the existing vacuum line when enlarging the hole. Remove the dead vacuum line but keep the other 2 lines attached. The hole needs to be big enough to extract the check valve through the hole. Make a bigger hole, roughly the size of a quarter, where the grommet was located.
After looking it over, push the check valve back into the hole. If the vacuum line drags easily to the grommet hole, the hose connection to the vacuum reservoir has failed (this is the reason for the repair). You can then gently pull on the line bringing the check valve into view on the other side of the hole. Then with fingers or a screwdriver pry the grommet out of the plastic box toward the interior side of the van. Gently pull the vacuum line out of the grommet enough to clear the sleeve. Our vacuum line into the cab has a red sleeve that expands the installed grommet. Sit on the running board to look in and see this area. Inside the cab, find the grommet with the vacuum line entering the just above the carpet in the passenger side floorboard. (There is a chance that some diesel engines will have an electric vacuum pump.) Put your thumb over the vacuum source hose to make sure that it is drawing air:Ī: Gasoline Engine-vacuum hose runs along the top of the firewall and should be found in the wire harness clips above the engine just under the hood seal, or ī: Diesel Engine-from the mechanical pump run by fan belt, look for black rubber hose near the oil fill cap. Under the hood, confirm a good vacuum source while the engine is running. If you experience this failure, talk to your mechanic about options for the repair work.
It likely takes longer to research the repair than to do the repair. After a brief inspection under the hood to check the vacuum source, all of the work is done just above the passenger side floorboard. There are many ways to do this job but the approach below does not cut lines or use bolt holes for vacuum lines. Some suggest cutting vacuum lines, removing a bolt and passing a vacuum line through a bolt hole where the bolt is not replaced. There are several easier repair methods on YouTube and other forums. The book says to remove the air conditioner components and make the repair from the engine bay. If you take it to a Ford dealer, the repair cost might approach $1000.
The system must have vacuum to open the dash vents. The problem is that a 3-inch piece of rubber vacuum hose between the check valve and the vacuum reservoir dry rots and causes a vacuum leak defaulting the airflow to the defroster. This is a common failure on the E350/E450 vans. Our air conditioner sent cold air to the defroster vents instead of the dash vents. Ford Econoline E350 E450 vent switch stuck on defrost
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